RK Euro Model 9 - Classic Oakeshott Type XII Arming Sword
One Handed Medieval Arming Sword with Peened Pommel - 1075 TH carbon steel blade with fuller. Genuine Leather Grip. New improved version.
Taking a decades worth of experience with the best sword forges in Longquan (whose own sword making history dates back THOUSANDS of years) and combining it with the best practices of modern, fully functional European sword replicas - the end result is Ronin Katana's line of high quality, hand forged battle ready medieval swords - now available for immediate shipping at a price that practically any enthusiast can afford.
Each sword in this range is hand forged from top quality 1075 carbon steel, properly heat treated for strength and flexibility and sharpened so you can use them for cutting straight out of the box (or if you prefer, used to cut up the box, though be sure to take out the form fitting Styrofoam, added to protect against damage in transit). But no reason to stop there, these swords can easily cut water filled bottles of all shaped and sizes, super thick bamboo, tatami mats, you name it - they can handle it!
The swords vary in design and while not based on any particular medieval sword are historically plausible and designed to exhibit great handling and cutting dynamics rarely found at this price point.
This model comes with a genuine black leather wrapped wooden core handle and all steel fittings for maximum durability, plus the whole assembly is peened in the traditional way for maximum overall durability. Every sword also comes with a FREE BONUS wooden core, faux leather wrapped scabbard and integrated suspension system for either display or wearing (one size belt can be adjusted to suit your waist as necessary)
Simply amazing value for money and a return to affordable medieval swords where every other maker has doubled or tripled their prices means that they will sell out fast, so grab one while you can!
This particular model is a single handed knightly arming sword popular from the 13th and 14th centuries based on the Oakeshott Type XII - with solid bodied blade for maximum durability, cruciform style guard hilt and classic wheel shaped pommel. Ready to cut straight out of the box.
How to Use
Materials and Construction
Featured positive reviews:
I have had this sword for about two weeks by now. I've used it in all of the capacities that I would plan to use it at least once. I did NOT use it on tatami mats, because,,, they are expensive and I don't really plan to buy any during my present outlook.
The sword is amazing to behold, very sharp, and very dangerous. It demands the most attentive user, where many other budget swords do not. Unfortunately, it is a little loose in the scabbard, which doubles the need for care while handling. The sword is a weapon of the highest order of swords, and every time I handle it I am fearful of it.
When I cut with it, (I cut plastic drink bottles I find on walks) it can cut even the heaviest of bottles and feel perfectly adept. I can use it for every angle of attack and succeed even with poor form, and when I hit the stand, which is a big log, it doesn't appear to dull the blade or result in bending. The sword is as potent as I have imagined an arming sword to be capable of.
As for the specifics of the model, the shape and handling, I am not very experienced, however I have a few other swords that others have given rave reviews for handling, and I like this one better. It is possible that this is because my form and technique has evolved around swords of roughly this design, (I chose this model because it looked similar in profile to what i was looking for), and for another user who prefers a different wrist and arm motion, perhaps they will have a different experience, I just don't know. My other swords with wider bases and narrower tips just don't feel as good to me in the hand as this one when I try to handle them. The #9 euro seems well suited to lateral strikes originated from both the shoulder and the wrist/elbow, and I find it very easy to control the apex of the whipping motion. It cuts very well all the way up the blade, and I have had other swords that did not cut so well towards the tip. It also feels very potent even when the wrist or elbow is the center of motion, and the focus is more on a little whipping vs. a full power swing. Some people comment that it feels too thick towards the tip, but it seems very sharp, very agile, and very potent, so I don't feel the same way, it feels very intentional to me, and I wonder if the technique others have developed is merely more well suited to another weight distribution, and with some changes they would feel the same as I do.
With my wider based, narrower tipped swords, I feel the strike is more similar to a saber strike, but closer, while this euro 9 feels more appropriate with such strikes as seen in sword and buckler technique, where snappy attacks with the requirement of controlling the apex of the whip are the order. (I feel a saber is less demanding on the user to control where in the swing the power of the strike is focused, a saber or katana feel as though they will powerfully cut along the entire trajectory of the strike,,, thus the coining of the term "whipping of the apex")
This sword was the one of my collection that opened my eyes to a number of the features of euro-swords also, which are less specific to this model or brand, for example the pommel shape and location, how it interacts with my wrist during the various strikes, and the overall shape of an arming sword. It also works very well with reverse edge strikes, which also result in unique interactions with handle.
As other reviewers have commented, the focus is all on the blade, the scabbard is left alone at functional. It is simple, but the problem is, it is loose. The sword will slide right out if it if you bend over with your hands full and the scabbard under your arm, leaving you with your hands full to keep you from catching it, and a very sharp blade in motion close to your body. I haven't tried it, but I have considered two approaches,, a few pieces of tape on the inside to create some friction,,, or perhaps gluing some paper for the same effect. tape seems less permanent, so more preferable, however I'm not sure if tape against the blade over time is the right idea, different glues might result in corrosion or residue on the blade.
Overall it's an incredible buy, the only reason you would shy away from it, is if you had a budget that let you get just as much blade but with additional upgrades to the furniture.