Darksword 1540 - Five Lobed Viking SwordDarksword 1540 - Five Lobed Viking Sword2
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One of the most coveted medieval swords among collectors is the Viking sword. Given the multitude of Viking swords on the market, one wonders whether the market is saturated. Many reproductions however, play into the stereotype of Viking swords as little more than long cleavers – heavy, brutish weapons wielded by a brutal people. These reproductions fail to capture the spirit or “function” of the Viking sword as an important step in the evolution of the European medieval swords, from earlier Romanesque styles to the arming swords of late medieval period.
The most authoritative typology of the Viking swords was written by Dr. Jan Peterson in 1919. Focusing on variations in pommel and guards to formulate a 26 category scheme, Jan Perterson created a typological reference to determine the date of each sub type.
The five lobed Viking battle ready sword is the quintessential Norse weapon during the Viking age. The blade has the distinctive wide fuller and spatulate tip typical of designs from the Viking era. While using a Type 4 blade from the Geibig Typology, we fitted the five lobe Viking medieval sword with an extended handle that is long enough for both “hammer” and “handshake” grip.
The type 4 blade, found from the mid-tenth century through the mid-eleventh century, features a slight taper and a fuller which extends the blade’s full length. We carefully crafted this Viking medieval sword to reflect the Norse cultural and artistic heritage.
This sword comes with a wood core, deluxe scabbard as standard and includes a fully wearable, premium quality sword belt with suspension system - allowing it to be worn or for an extra flourish when not in use hung on the wall.
Unlike Darksword blades we sold in the past, the sword is automatically also given a thorough sharpening until it is paper cutting sharp!
Exceptional tools of war, the Viking medieval swords also attest to the Viking culture’s keen interest in art and aesthetic beauty. The Viking battle ready sword features a 30 inch blade, forged with 5160 High Carbon Steel and dual hardened.
How to Use
Materials and Construction
Featured positive reviews:
I only own a few blades, and nothing "high-end," but I have done plenty of fighting with various recreation groups, so I know a bit about how a weapon should handle.
First, the positives.
-DSA shipped me a good-looking blade, packed well. The steel is straight, the handle is tight, the fittings look very nice for a basic kit.
-Came with a nice scabbard, which is a bonus
-Considering the amount and type of steel we're looking at, it's probably extremely durable.
Now, the bad news:
--I'm going to try and embed a photo or a link to a couple photos here. They show this sword side-by-side with the Ronin Katana Euro Model 8, another sword I own. Both swords are sitting on a table, with a small block of wood underneath their balance point.
Hopefully you can see the pictures, but the gist of it is, the balance point of the DSA sword is over 8" from the crossguard. The RK sword is just a bit over 5". Supposedly, the swords weigh very close to the same, within a couple ounces...with the RK sword actually being listed as slightly heavier. You can also (hopefully) see how the DSA sword is wider; it is 1/8" wider at the base, and a full 1/4" wider at the point where the fullers end. On the other hand, the fittings on the RK blade are significantly more beefy (and more crudely made, but still not bad by any means). All of this adds up to those balance points.
The DSA blade is like swinging a crowbar. It feels MUCH slower to recover, change direction, etc., and puts a lot more stress on the person swinging it than the RK blade, which is much more responsive.
The blade really needs to be narrowed down a bit, or have some weight distributed into the handle and pommel, to be something I would consider actually using as a weapon. Or I just need to be a lot stronger, I guess. Like a gorilla.
Anyway, photos. Hopefully.
Featured negative reviews:
See my above review for earlier details.
To update, I finished putting a rough edge on the blade. Nothing spectacular, definitely not razor sharp or anything. Just a basic edge, so it wasn't blunt.
First thing I noticed was that different parts of the blade sharpened more easily than others. Some spots took a decent edge, others were so hard I felt like I would need an angle grinder to remove material. I am no expert, but to me that says "inconsistency in the heat treating."
After getting an edge of sorts on it, I took it out to the orchard and struck a small branch with it. Started out light, hit a little harder with each blow, until I was at about half power. It cut fine, and no edge damage that I could see, BUT...
After 5-6 blows, before I even got to half power, the hilt loosened up. Specifically the cross guard is now a bit loose, with a wiggle/rattle to it. I stopped after a couple more blows, because I am not sure if it just needs shimming now, or if the entire grip has backed off a touch, leaving room, and potentially coming apart entirely if I kept at it.
I really expected better from DSA. Between the AWFUL balance, loosening grip, and uneven edge hardness, this is apparently little more than a wall hanger at this point. I guess that is what it will become.
Ugh. I could have gotten a prettier decoration at a much lower price.